- Posts: 903
Tiller guts
I was told the same thing....however, on this tiller the seals were both the same way....not sure what is best....there was a space a little space between the seals....do you think grease would help between the seals??? Without lubrication I would think the outer seal would not last too long...Kyblue wrote: They really are simple ... I'll need to put a chain in mine this winter.
Be sure when you put the seals in, mine were in different directions ... one kept oil in, one kept dirt out ... not sure if that's factory or if the p/o did that...they were leaking so....might not be so good...I did put put them back like that, and the the new seals don't leak. However I have a pulley shaft seal leaking now...
Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky
"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife
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Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.
www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO...pl.html?keyword=toro
15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....
Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky
"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife
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Trouty56 wrote:
I was told the same thing....however, on this tiller the seals were both the same way....not sure what is best....there was a space a little space between the seals....do you think grease would help between the seals??? Without lubrication I would think the outer seal would not last too long...Kyblue wrote: They really are simple ... I'll need to put a chain in mine this winter.
Be sure when you put the seals in, mine were in different directions ... one kept oil in, one kept dirt out ... not sure if that's factory or if the p/o did that...they were leaking so....might not be so good...I did put put them back like that, and the the new seals don't leak. However I have a pulley shaft seal leaking now...
I don't think using some grease would hurt a thing. Actually I think it's a great idea...and I'm sorry I didn't think of it when i did mine
There's room for all god's creatures ..... next to the mashed potatoes (and possibly bbq'd)
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Trouty56 wrote:
Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.
www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO...pl.html?keyword=toro
15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....
They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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Found another place.....GT 14 wrote:
Trouty56 wrote:
Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.
www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO...pl.html?keyword=toro
15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....
They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.
www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm
Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky
"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife
Please Log in to join the conversation.
Trouty56 wrote:
Found another place.....GT 14 wrote:
Trouty56 wrote:
Here is an example of the D series tine...left side which I think is looking at the rear of the tiller....it curves to the left side....GT 14 wrote: If you can get em for 12$ that is the way to go. Even buying left and right you may need the other in the future.
www.tiller-blades.com/C-Blades/6275-TORO...pl.html?keyword=toro
15 bucks shipping though....that is almost 30 bucks a tine....
They say there hardened and coated. Maybe worth it.
www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm
If I am reading it right hardened and coated would run about 18$
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm
Actually I ordered 3.....I need a left so I ordered an extra left and a right for spares.....so I got 3 plus shipping was less than 30 bucks.....I'll get some pics when they arrive....
I just got regular ones (20% discount no less).....I can face them here if I think they are needed.....I'll be plowing the ground over so I doubt I will need hardened tines.....
Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky
"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife
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Trouty56 wrote: So I ordered a tine from this outfit.....
www.cleancutter.com/cat_alpha_frame.htm
Actually I ordered 3.....I need a left so I ordered an extra left and a right for spares.....so I got 3 plus shipping was less than 30 bucks.....I'll get some pics when they arrive....
I just got regular ones (20% discount no less).....I can face them here if I think they are needed.....I'll be plowing the ground over so I doubt I will need hardened tines.....
Thats a good deal! Are you still welding or using the bolt holes?
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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Bob T
Adams County Pennsyltucky
"One, that's easy to remember. It's the first number in the alphabet...." - Barney Fife
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Trouty56 wrote: I have to weld this one on.....there isn't a stub to bolt it to. It is broken at the shaft....take a little grinding and bracing but I think it will be fine.... You know a guy could make a shaft up with bolt on plates and have a set of these bolt on tines....would take 12 a side...then you would be set to go....
Yea a little work up front could save in the long run. Is the D set-up that way?
1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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